January. Bleak, isn’t it? December and its festivities feel a long way behind us, and the delights of spring and summer feel a long way ahead. In addition, avid consumers of ‘morris social media’ might currently be feeling like they missed out on January’s biggest folk event, having seen the build up and excitement of the Whittlesea Straw Bear last weekend.
Fear not, folkies. Propelled by my own Straw Bear FOMO, I’m here to reassure you that, for those of us in South Wales and the West Country at least, there’s another morris mega-event just on the horizon this Saturday 18th January.
Many will be familiar with the traditional West Country wassail, in which apple trees are anointed with last year’s cider in the hope of good harvests. You may be less familiar with the Mari Lwyd (grey mare), a Welsh winter tradition that features skeletal hobby horse heads singing at doors and begging for food, ale and admittance. Another variation on the theme of farm labourers having to find creative ways to sustain themselves in winter, with a distinctive Welsh twist.
Chepstow, a market town in South Wales with close links to Bristol and the Forest of Dean, has chosen to embrace both English and Welsh traditions with its annual Mari Lwyd and Wassail; a day of morris dance, revelry and Mari mischief hosted by Widders Border Morris. It’s a fitting location, as Chepstow is the only town along the Welsh border with a bridge over the river Wye where you can stand with one foot in England and the other in Wales. It also sits at the point where the Wye flows into the Severn estuary. As local Priestess Nicola Haasz reflects in her recent Sabrina Riverfolk podcast about the event, the places where rivers join often hold special cultural and spiritual significance. The event also centres on Chepstow castle, the UK’s oldest post-Roman settlement crucial to the Norman conquest of Gwent.

Like so many British traditions, the precise origins of this cultural phenomenon are vague. The event in its current(ish) form has been running for around two decades, peaking in 2019 with a record gathering of 40 Maris along with many morris sides. After a pause necessitated by the pandemic, the event returned last year in a somewhat smaller guise, with new organisers and a refreshed community spirit. Previous years saw Welsh and English morris sides, Maris and Beasts meeting on the bridge between countries for a friendly dance-off to round off the day. However, road closure costs now see the Welsh briefly welcome and escort English visitors across the bridge at dusk, before the event comes to a close at the museum doors.
What to Expect
At around 12.30pm, multiple morris sides from across Wales, the Wye Valley and the South West will be coming together to dance around the town. There’s something for everyone – different traditions, kits, beasts and a mix of established sides along with ‘up and coming’ ones to watch. While I wouldn’t dare show favouritism, Herefordshire newcomers Gidderskins are particularly delightful, with their youthful exuberance and ‘merry men’ style forest folk-esque kits standing out among the rag jackets.

Mari Lwyds will also be descending on Chepstow from across Wales, roaming the town alone and in herds to bring mirth and mischief, likely joined by a morris beast or two. (In a bid to keep these mischievous gaggles of skeletal horses somewhat in check, visiting Maris and other beasts also need to check in with the event organisers prior to marauding around the town.)
At 3.30pm the Wassail kicks off, with songs, cider and celebrations in the Castle orchard. After this, a selection of Mari Lwyds will go knocking at the castle door, escorted by local school children with lanterns. This is known as a ‘pwnco’, where the Maris sing to gain admittance, and the residents sing back excuses before finally yielding and inviting them in.
While that’s happening, the English sides slope off back over the Wye for a bit, procure an apple cart, and parade back onto the bridge at around 4.30pm, to be met and welcomed by the Welsh. The event wraps up with a final pwnco at the museum doors around 5.15pm.

The day promises to be a beautiful blending of traditions, celebrating the uniqueness of the local English-Welsh border community and culture. So wrap up warm, bring coins for the collection tins, and if a skeletal horse knocks at your door please invite them in!
Photo credit: Janice Lightly